Strong Roots, Keep it Local

Tree Pruning

Service

Avoid dangerous weakened branches or get that perfect tree shape with professional pruning.

Proper pruning is the difference between a healthy tree that lives for decades and one that becomes a hazard.

Our ISA-trained climbers prune for structure, health, clearance from roof lines and drives, and appearance, following ANSI A300 standards: no topping, no over-thinning, no flush cuts.

Topping in particular gets sold in this market as a safety measure and is the opposite of one — it leaves large wounds and provokes fast, weakly-attached regrowth over the same target, so the hazard comes back worse in a few years.

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What’s Included

ISA-arborist guided pruning plan
Crown cleaning, thinning, raising, or reduction
Clearance pruning for structures, drives, and power lines
Cleanup, chipping, and haul-off

When to call us

Limbs over a roof, asymmetric or unbalanced growth, after storm damage, or just routine maintenance every 3–5 years.

Trusted · Certified · Insured

How the job runs

We assess structure before touching anything — branch unions, included bark, deadwood load, and what each limb is over.
You get a plan that says which cuts and why, not just a price for trimming.
Climbing or bucket access depending on the tree and the ground around it.
Cuts are made at the branch collar, sized so the tree can compartmentalise them.
Everything is chipped or hauled and the area raked out.

What drives the price

We quote on site, in writing, after walking the work with you. These are the variables that move the number:

Tree size and how much of the crown is in scope
Access — climbing costs more than bucket work, and steep ground rules out the bucket
Type of pruning: deadwood removal is quicker than structural reduction
Proximity to roofs, wires, and anything that needs rigging rather than dropping
Number of trees, since mobilising once for several is cheaper per tree

On a Wasatch Back property

Timing matters more here than in a milder climate, and most seasonal advice gets it wrong. USU Extension is explicit that autumn is the wrong window for most pruning: trees are not fully dormant even after leaf drop, and wounds delay dormancy and stop the tree hardening off properly. The right window for structural work is late winter to early spring, roughly February to late April. The exceptions are dead, diseased, and genuinely hazardous limbs, which come out whenever they are found. So in autumn we take out what is dangerous and book the shaping work for late winter.

Questions we get asked

When should pruning happen?: Late winter to early spring for structural work, while the tree is fully dormant and before buds swell. Dead, diseased, or hazardous limbs are the exception and should come out whenever they are found.
Can you just top my tree to make it shorter?: We will not. Topping is considered unacceptable practice by the ISA because it defers and then amplifies the hazard. Where height genuinely needs reducing, crown reduction to appropriate lateral branches is the correct method.
How often do trees need pruning?: Mature trees in a landscape setting, roughly every three to five years. Young trees benefit from earlier structural pruning, which is far cheaper than correcting a bad union at twenty years.
Will pruning reduce snow-load damage?: Yes, and it is one of the better reasons to do it here. Reducing the length and weight of limbs over a roof or drive lowers the load on a weak union, and tying multi-stem evergreens before winter prevents the splay-and-split failure.

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Tree Pruning

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Tell us about your project — we'll set up a free on-site visit and walk you through a quote for tree pruning.

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ISA Certified Arborist · Licensed & insured · Free, no-obligation estimates

Questions we get asked

When should pruning happen?

Late winter to early spring for structural work, while the tree is fully dormant and before buds swell. Dead, diseased, or hazardous limbs are the exception and should come out whenever they are found.

Can you just top my tree to make it shorter?

We will not. Topping is considered unacceptable practice by the ISA because it defers and then amplifies the hazard. Where height genuinely needs reducing, crown reduction to appropriate lateral branches is the correct method.

How often do trees need pruning?

Mature trees in a landscape setting, roughly every three to five years. Young trees benefit from earlier structural pruning, which is far cheaper than correcting a bad union at twenty years.

Will pruning reduce snow-load damage?

Yes, and it is one of the better reasons to do it here. Reducing the length and weight of limbs over a roof or drive lowers the load on a weak union, and tying multi-stem evergreens before winter prevents the splay-and-split failure.

Tree Pruning

What’s Included

When to call us

How the job runs

What drives the price

On a Wasatch Back property

Questions we get asked

Go deeper on tree pruning

Related Services

Tree Removal

Wood Chipping

Storm Cleanup

Ready to get
the work done?

Tree Pruning

What’s Included

When to call us

How the job runs

What drives the price

On a Wasatch Back property

Questions we get asked

Go deeper on tree pruning

Related Services

Tree Removal

Wood Chipping

Storm Cleanup

Ready to get
the work done?

Tree Pruning

What’s Included

When to call us

How the job runs

What drives the price

On a Wasatch Back property

Questions we get asked

Go deeper on tree pruning

Related Services

Tree Removal

Wood Chipping

Storm Cleanup

Ready to getthe work done?

Tree Pruning

What’s Included

When to call us

How the job runs

What drives the price

On a Wasatch Back property

Questions we get asked

Go deeper on tree pruning

Related Services

Tree Removal

Wood Chipping

Storm Cleanup

Ready to getthe work done?

Ready to get
the work done?

Ready to get
the work done?